July 16, 2009 - Seoul, South Korea
"The scariest place on Earth."
~Bill Clinton, referring to the DMZ
Today is frustrating. In addition to Korean culture, pertaining to Silk Road Trade, my primary interest in participating in this study tour is to visit the DMZ. The North-South Korea Demilitarized Zone (DMZ) is shared space, along the 38th parallel, established over 50 years ago, after the Korean War. The 38th parallel split was determined by Communist Russia and Capitalist United States, in 1945, at the end of WWII.
The DMZ is a major South Korea tourist attraction and one we assumed we would experience. Speculation is far and wide for why we can't visit the DMZ, but the Joint Security Area (JSA) is closed. Rumors swarming include U.S. soldiers have Swine Flu, North Korean troops are moving towards the border due to disrupted trade agreements with other countries, the DMZ is feeling pressure due to Kim Jong-il's health condition - basically U.S. citizens aren't allowed north of Seoul.
The entire trip schedule revolved around the DMZ excursion, so our feelings are mixed - relieved we're protected against possible trouble and upset that circumstances are not allowing our visit. We've been told the DMZ has only been closed four other times in the last 50 years.
Instead we visited the Korean War Museum. Although not the DMZ, the museum provided a captivating explanation of events leading up to the North Korean invasion, the Korean experience during the war, and reconstruction since. Most meaningful to our group were memorials to U.S. and United Nations troops, whom defended the south.
I then headed to the Samsung Leeum Museum of Art to take-in the architecture and creative spirit of modern Asian artists.