November 27, 2007 - Jeddah, Saudi Arabia
“There is a road, no simple highway,
Between the dawn and the dark of night,
And if you go no one may follow,
That path is for your steps alone.”
~Jerry Garcia, The Grateful Dead
Jeddah temperature high: 88 degrees F
Hood River temperature high: 40 degrees F
Last night we flew from Dhahran’s “Little America” compounds on the East Coast, to the historical city of Jeddah on the West Coast. We are told Jeddah’s motto is “Jeddah Ghier”, meaning “Jeddah’s different”. This specifically references the competition Jeddah holds with the capitol city of Riyadh. Jeddah doesn’t regard itself just different from Riyadh, but better!
Jeddah is located on the exotic Red Sea and is considered the wealthiest city in both the Middle East and Western Asia. The word Jeddah means “grandmother”. It is believed that the tomb of all people’s grandmother, Eve, is located in Jeddah.
There are 5 Pillars of Islam:
1. Testimony there is no god but God and that Muhammad is the messenger of God
2. Performing prayer five times a day
3. Paying the zakaat - sharing wealth of those less fortunate
4. Fasting from sun-up to sundown during Ramadan
5. Pilgrimage to Mecca, called the Hajj
Once in a lifetime, Muslims are required to participate in the Hajj by visiting Islam’s holiest city of Mecca. Jeddah serves as the gateway for this pilgrimage. In order to prepare for the Hajj, male pilgrims dress only in two sheets of white unhemmed cloth. The top sheet is draped over the torso and the bottom secured by a white sash around the waist. Women wear their normal abayas, for coving their entire bodies. The purpose of all men and women wearing the same clothing is to take away the look of wealth or poverty; all are equal when on the Hajj. On the planes and in the Jeddah airport, there are a number of men walking around, barely covered - wearing only white towels.
The minimum number of days required to complete the Hajj tour is three. During these three days, Muslims circle the first temple of God, the Kaaba; run back and forth between the hills of Safa and Marwa praying for God to answer prayers; and then stoning the Jamrat, which represents the rejection of Satan. Though, the pinnacle of the Hajj is the walk to Mount Arafat where it is believed that Adam and Eve were reunited 200 years after separation when God threw them out of the Garden of Eden. It is here that God forgave Adam and Eve. Muslims believe this is the place that their sins will also be forgiven.
The Hajj reminds me of going “on tour” with ones favorite band.
At least 2 million Muslims participate in the Hajj each year. This year, the Hajj begins two week after we leave. December 20, 2007.
Once the Hajj is completed (accepted), Muslims emerge newly reborn, cleansed of all past sins. This is not necessarily the case after touring with The Grateful Dead.
